The details behind the garment

Knowledge Centre

An exploration of the materials, processes and construction choices that define every SUBTTL garment.

01

Material

What is Mercerised Cotton?

Mercerised cotton is premium cotton yarn treated with a caustic solution to swell the fibres, increasing strength, lustre and dye absorption.

This chemical finishing process permanently alters the cellular structure of the cotton fibre. It smooths the outer surface, eliminating micro-fuzz and giving the fabric a subtle, silk-like sheen.

Beyond aesthetics, mercerisation increases tensile strength by up to 25%, improves dimensional stability, prevents post-wash fabric shrinkage and allows deep colour retention that resists fading over time.

02

Yarn

What is Compact-Spun Cotton?

Compact-spun cotton is yarn produced using an advanced spinning technology that aligns fibres tightly, reducing surface hairiness and pilling.

During traditional ring spinning, loose fibre ends protrude from the yarn, causing surface fuzz and pilling after friction or washing.

Compact spinning uses an air-vacuum channel to compress and integrate all individual fibres into the centre core before twisting. The result is an exceptionally smooth, uniform and durable yarn with high abrasion resistance and a clean hand-feel.

03

Yarn

Why do we use 34s Cotton?

We use 34s (34 single) cotton yarn because it provides the optimal balance of ultra-fine yarn density, soft drape and structural stability.

In yarn counts, a higher "s" number indicates a finer, thinner thread. Many mass-market polos use coarse 20s or 24s yarn, resulting in heavy, rough fabrics. Extremely thin counts, such as 40s or 50s, can be too delicate for daily wear.

Choosing 34s compact-spun mercerised cotton allows us to knit a high-density, 28-gauge fabric that remains breathable, exceptionally smooth against the skin and resistant to sagging.

Why do we use 4% Elastane in AURYS MICRO?

34s is an exceptionally fine and delicate cotton yarn. While its fineness gives AURYS MICRO its lightweight, smooth and refined character, it also benefits from additional resilience.

We introduce 4% elastane to give the knit greater strength, recovery and dimensional stability. It allows the fabric to move naturally with the body while helping it return to its original shape after wear.

The result is a lightweight, refined cotton piqué that retains its clean structure and fit without compromising the softness and comfort of the fabric.

04

Color

What is HIGH IQ® Lasting Color, and Why Did SUBTTL Choose It?

HIGH IQ® Lasting Color is a colour-retention performance programme designed to help garments retain their colour intensity through repeated washing.It uses specially selected dye technologies and is backed by defined performance testing and quality-assurance requirements.

WHY DOES IT MATTER?

Colour is fundamental to a SUBTTL garment.

We make solids. There are no prints, patterns or graphics to distract from the colour of the garment itself. That makes colour depth, consistency and longevity particularly important.

Conventional dyeing can gradually diminish colour intensity through repeated washing, especially in deeper shades. HIGH IQ® Lasting Color is designed to help colours retain their vibrancy and dark shades retain their depth for longer.

WHY SUBTTL CHOSE IT

We don't want our colours to look good only when they're new.

We chose HIGH IQ® Lasting Color because colour performance is part of the product—not simply an aesthetic choice. It allows us to build colour longevity into the fabric at the dyeing stage, complementing the other processes we use to make our garments last.

SUBTTL 20-WASH COLOUR GUARANTEE

We guarantee colour performance for 20 washes when the garment is cared for according to our recommended care instructions.

We believe a premium solid should remain rich, consistent and recognisably itself—not simply look good on day one.

Colour is part of the garment. We make it last.

05

Knit Structure

What is Single Pique?

Single pique is a lightweight, breathable knit structure featuring a subtle geometric mesh-like texture on the fabric surface.

Knit using a single set of needles, single pique features tiny, refined geometric openings that allow maximum air permeability. It produces a soft, fluid drape that contours naturally without feeling heavy.

Single pique offers a sleek, minimal profile with exceptional breathability, making it ideal for clean, daily warm-weather luxury.

06

Knit Structure

What is Double Pique?

Double pique is a dense, dual-knit structure with a pronounced micro-honeycomb texture that adds weight, opacity and shape retention.

Constructed using a double-needle tuck-and-miss knitting technique, double pique creates a two-sided structural fabric. It is thicker, more dimensional and visually rich compared with single pique.

The added body helps the garment maintain a structured silhouette and supports excellent collar stability.

07

Construction

What is Collar Construction?

Collar construction refers to the way a polo collar is knitted, layered and assembled. It determines how well the collar retains its shape, resists curling and maintains its appearance.

Why Does It Matter?

The collar is one of the first areas of a polo to show signs of wear. Poorly constructed collars can curl at the edges, lose their structure and make an otherwise well-made garment appear worn.

A well-engineered collar combines the right knit structure, fibre composition and construction method to deliver long-term stability while remaining soft and comfortable.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL polos feature a 3-layer flat-knit collar engineered using 95% compact cotton and 5% elastane. This construction provides excellent shape retention and recovery while maintaining a clean, structured appearance without relying on stiff synthetic interlinings.

08

Construction

What is Stitch Density?

Stitch density, measured as Stitches Per Inch (SPI), refers to the number of stitches used to construct a seam. It is an important indicator of garment construction quality.

Why Does It Matter?

Too few stitches can create weak seams that fail under tension, while excessive stitch density can damage fine knitted fabrics by creating unnecessary needle perforations.

The correct SPI provides the ideal balance of durability, flexibility and comfort, allowing the garment to move naturally while maintaining seam integrity.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Every SUBTTL polo is sewn using an optimised stitch density specifically calibrated for our premium 28-gauge mercerised cotton fabrics, delivering clean, durable and comfortable seams.

09

Finishing

What is Singeing?

Singeing is a finishing process that removes loose surface fibres from cotton yarn or fabric by passing it rapidly over a controlled flame.

Why Does It Matter?

Removing microscopic loose fibres creates a smoother fabric surface, improves the clarity of the knit structure and enhances the natural lustre of the cotton. It also helps reduce surface pilling, allowing garments to retain a cleaner appearance over time.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Every SUBTTL fabric undergoes singeing before final finishing to achieve a cleaner surface, enhanced fabric definition and improved long-term appearance.

10

Construction

What Makes a Quality Button?

A button is more than a fastening component. Its size, material and finish influence both the durability of the garment and its overall visual balance.

Why Does It Matter?

Poor-quality buttons can crack, chip or lose their finish after repeated washing. Choosing the correct size and material ensures better durability while complementing the weight and construction of the fabric.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL polos feature 20L (12.7 mm) laser-engraved buttons manufactured from premium composite material, selected for their durability, refined proportions and long-term performance.

11

Finishing

What is Bio-Washing?

Bio-washing is an enzymatic finishing process that removes microscopic loose fibres from the surface of cotton fabrics using natural cellulase enzymes.

Why Does It Matter?

By removing excess surface fibres rather than coating the fabric, bio-washing produces a softer hand feel, a cleaner appearance and improved resistance to pilling. The result is a fabric that continues to look and feel refined after repeated washing.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL fabrics undergo bio-washing to enhance softness, refine the fabric surface and improve long-term comfort and appearance.

12

Finishing

What is Silicone Softening?

Silicone softening is a premium finishing treatment that applies a specialised silicone micro-emulsion to the surface of cotton fibres.

Why Does It Matter?

The treatment reduces fibre-to-fibre friction, creating a smoother, silkier hand feel while improving drape and wrinkle recovery. Unlike structural treatments, silicone softening enhances the tactile experience of the fabric.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Following bio-washing, SUBTTL fabrics receive a premium silicone softening treatment to deliver a smoother touch, improved drape and exceptional everyday comfort.

13

Colour

What is Reactive Dyeing?

Reactive dyeing is an advanced colouring process in which the dye forms a chemical bond with the cellulose fibres of cotton.

Why Does It Matter?

Because the dye becomes part of the fibre rather than sitting on the surface, reactive dyeing produces richer colours with superior resistance to fading and colour bleeding. This helps garments retain their original appearance through repeated washing.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL fabrics are dyed using High IQ® Lasting Colour technology powered by Archroma's AVITERA® SE reactive dyes, delivering exceptional colour depth and long-lasting colour performance.

14

Finishing

What are Pre-Shrinking & Compaction?

Pre-shrinking and compaction are mechanical finishing processes that stabilise knitted cotton fabrics before garments are cut and sewn.

Why Does It Matter?

Cotton naturally relaxes after washing, which can lead to unwanted shrinkage. Mechanical compaction reduces this movement by relaxing and compressing the knit structure in advance, helping garments retain their original fit and dimensions.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Every SUBTTL fabric is pre-shrunk and mechanically compacted before production to help maintain consistent fit, shape and dimensional stability throughout the garment's life.

15

Faq

Which Size Should I Buy?

Choosing the right size starts with your chest measurement. We recommend comparing your body measurement with our detailed Size Guide rather than relying on the size you wear in other brands.

If you're between sizes or prefer a more relaxed fit, consider sizing up. If you prefer a neater, closer fit, choose your regular size.

How SUBTTL Helps

Every SUBTTL product includes a detailed size guide with garment measurements to help you choose the right fit. Our products are developed with a carefully refined Modern Regular Fit and are available in an inclusive size range from S to 4XL, because we believe premium clothing should fit more people—not just standard sizes.

16

Faq

Is It Slim Fit or Regular Fit?

Our polos are designed with a Modern Regular Fit—neither overly slim nor oversized.

The silhouette follows the body naturally while providing enough room for comfortable movement. It offers a clean, tailored appearance without feeling restrictive, making it suitable for both work and casual wear.

How SUBTTL Fits

SUBTTL's fit has been developed through multiple rounds of sampling and refinement to balance comfort, proportion and everyday versatility.

17

Faq

I'm Between Two Sizes. Which One Should I Choose?

If your measurements fall between two sizes, the best choice depends on how you like your clothes to fit.

  • Prefer a closer, more tailored fit? Choose the smaller size.
  • Prefer a little more room or a relaxed feel? Choose the larger size.

If you're unsure, we generally recommend sizing up, especially for comfort during extended wear.

How SUBTTL Helps

Our pre-shrunk fabrics are designed to minimise post-wash shrinkage, so you can choose your size with greater confidence. If you still need assistance, our customer support team will be happy to help you find the right fit.