The details behind the garment

Knowledge Centre

An exploration of the materials, processes and construction choices that define every SUBTTL garment.

01

Material

What is Mercerised Cotton?

Mercerised cotton is premium cotton yarn treated with a caustic solution to swell the fibres, increasing strength, lustre and dye absorption.

This chemical finishing process permanently alters the cellular structure of the cotton fibre. It smooths the outer surface, eliminating micro-fuzz and giving the fabric a subtle, silk-like sheen.

Beyond aesthetics, mercerisation increases tensile strength by up to 25%, improves dimensional stability, prevents post-wash fabric shrinkage and allows deep colour retention that resists fading over time.

02

Yarn

What is Compact-Spun Cotton?

Compact-spun cotton is yarn produced using an advanced spinning technology that aligns fibres tightly, reducing surface hairiness and pilling.

During traditional ring spinning, loose fibre ends protrude from the yarn, causing surface fuzz and pilling after friction or washing.

Compact spinning uses an air-vacuum channel to compress and integrate all individual fibres into the centre core before twisting. The result is an exceptionally smooth, uniform and durable yarn with high abrasion resistance and a clean hand-feel.

03

Yarn

Why do we use 34s 100% Cotton?

We use 34s (34 single) 100% cotton yarn because it provides the optimal balance of ultra-fine yarn density, soft drape and structural stability.

In yarn counts, a higher "s" number indicates a finer, thinner thread. Many mass-market polos use coarse 20s or 24s yarn, resulting in heavy, rough fabrics. Extremely thin counts, such as 40s or 50s, can be too delicate for daily wear.

Choosing 34s compact-spun mercerised cotton allows us to knit a high-density, 28-gauge fabric that remains breathable, exceptionally smooth against the skin and resistant to sagging.

04

Knit Structure

What is Single Pique?

Single pique is a lightweight, breathable knit structure featuring a subtle geometric mesh-like texture on the fabric surface.

Knit using a single set of needles, single pique features tiny, refined geometric openings that allow maximum air permeability. It produces a soft, fluid drape that contours naturally without feeling heavy.

Single pique offers a sleek, minimal profile with exceptional breathability, making it ideal for clean, daily warm-weather luxury.

05

Knit Structure

What is Double Pique?

Double pique is a dense, dual-knit structure with a pronounced micro-honeycomb texture that adds weight, opacity and shape retention.

Constructed using a double-needle tuck-and-miss knitting technique, double pique creates a two-sided structural fabric. It is thicker, more dimensional and visually rich compared with single pique.

The added body helps the garment maintain a structured silhouette and supports excellent collar stability.

06

Fabric Weight

What is GSM? Why 215 GSM and 225 GSM?

GSM (Grams per Square Metre) measures fabric weight and density; higher GSM numbers indicate a heavier, thicker fabric.

We custom-engineered specific GSMs for each weave to align with its natural drape and structural performance.

215 GSM — Single Pique

Single pique relies on lightness and movement. At 215 GSM, the fabric achieves substantial opacity and premium body while retaining a fluid, breathable drape that never feels stiff.

225 GSM — Double Pique

Double pique is built for architecture and texture. At 225 GSM, the micro-honeycomb weave gains the exact weight needed to maintain a crisp, structured frame, holding its shape wash after wash without feeling heavy.

07

Construction

What is Collar Construction?

Collar construction refers to the way a polo collar is knitted, layered and assembled. It determines how well the collar retains its shape, resists curling and maintains its appearance.

Why Does It Matter?

The collar is one of the first areas of a polo to show signs of wear. Poorly constructed collars can curl at the edges, lose their structure and make an otherwise well-made garment appear worn.

A well-engineered collar combines the right knit structure, fibre composition and construction method to deliver long-term stability while remaining soft and comfortable.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL polos feature a 3-layer flat-knit collar engineered using 95% compact cotton and 5% elastane. This construction provides excellent shape retention and recovery while maintaining a clean, structured appearance without relying on stiff synthetic interlinings.

08

Construction

What is Stitch Density?

Stitch density, measured as Stitches Per Inch (SPI), refers to the number of stitches used to construct a seam. It is an important indicator of garment construction quality.

Why Does It Matter?

Too few stitches can create weak seams that fail under tension, while excessive stitch density can damage fine knitted fabrics by creating unnecessary needle perforations.

The correct SPI provides the ideal balance of durability, flexibility and comfort, allowing the garment to move naturally while maintaining seam integrity.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Every SUBTTL polo is sewn using an optimised stitch density specifically calibrated for our premium 28-gauge mercerised cotton fabrics, delivering clean, durable and comfortable seams.

09

Finishing

What is Singeing?

Singeing is a finishing process that removes loose surface fibres from cotton yarn or fabric by passing it rapidly over a controlled flame.

Why Does It Matter?

Removing microscopic loose fibres creates a smoother fabric surface, improves the clarity of the knit structure and enhances the natural lustre of the cotton. It also helps reduce surface pilling, allowing garments to retain a cleaner appearance over time.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Every SUBTTL fabric undergoes singeing before final finishing to achieve a cleaner surface, enhanced fabric definition and improved long-term appearance.

10

Construction

What Makes a Quality Button?

A button is more than a fastening component. Its size, material and finish influence both the durability of the garment and its overall visual balance.

Why Does It Matter?

Poor-quality buttons can crack, chip or lose their finish after repeated washing. Choosing the correct size and material ensures better durability while complementing the weight and construction of the fabric.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL polos feature 20L (12.7 mm) laser-engraved buttons manufactured from premium composite material, selected for their durability, refined proportions and long-term performance.

11

Finishing

What is Bio-Washing?

Bio-washing is an enzymatic finishing process that removes microscopic loose fibres from the surface of cotton fabrics using natural cellulase enzymes.

Why Does It Matter?

By removing excess surface fibres rather than coating the fabric, bio-washing produces a softer hand feel, a cleaner appearance and improved resistance to pilling. The result is a fabric that continues to look and feel refined after repeated washing.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL fabrics undergo bio-washing to enhance softness, refine the fabric surface and improve long-term comfort and appearance.

12

Finishing

What is Silicone Softening?

Silicone softening is a premium finishing treatment that applies a specialised silicone micro-emulsion to the surface of cotton fibres.

Why Does It Matter?

The treatment reduces fibre-to-fibre friction, creating a smoother, silkier hand feel while improving drape and wrinkle recovery. Unlike structural treatments, silicone softening enhances the tactile experience of the fabric.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Following bio-washing, SUBTTL fabrics receive a premium silicone softening treatment to deliver a smoother touch, improved drape and exceptional everyday comfort.

13

Colour

What is Reactive Dyeing?

Reactive dyeing is an advanced colouring process in which the dye forms a chemical bond with the cellulose fibres of cotton.

Why Does It Matter?

Because the dye becomes part of the fibre rather than sitting on the surface, reactive dyeing produces richer colours with superior resistance to fading and colour bleeding. This helps garments retain their original appearance through repeated washing.

How SUBTTL Uses It

SUBTTL fabrics are dyed using High IQ® Lasting Colour technology powered by Archroma's AVITERA® SE reactive dyes, delivering exceptional colour depth and long-lasting colour performance.

14

Finishing

What are Pre-Shrinking & Compaction?

Pre-shrinking and compaction are mechanical finishing processes that stabilise knitted cotton fabrics before garments are cut and sewn.

Why Does It Matter?

Cotton naturally relaxes after washing, which can lead to unwanted shrinkage. Mechanical compaction reduces this movement by relaxing and compressing the knit structure in advance, helping garments retain their original fit and dimensions.

How SUBTTL Uses It

Every SUBTTL fabric is pre-shrunk and mechanically compacted before production to help maintain consistent fit, shape and dimensional stability throughout the garment's life.